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We set our sights on the island of Hokkaido, in northern Japan, renowned for its immaculate powder and incredible snow quality. From ski touring to resort skiing, here’s how to organize a trip like ours, with our notes and itinerary.
The two-week itinerary
Days 1-3: Departure from Montreal and arrival in Tokyo. We took two days to visit the megalopolis and soak up Japanese culture—all while recovering from jet lag.
Day 4: Departure from New Chitose Airport (south of the city of Sapporo) to pick up our rental car and drive to Furano, a city with typical Japanese charm–often compared to Niseko ten years ago–in the heart of Hokkaido. In the evening: a bit of skiing to stretch our legs.
Day 5: Skiing in Furano, a destination that’s becoming increasingly popular with the tourist surge from Niseko. If you want to get there before the crowds, it’s now or never!
Days 6-7: Ski touring days at Tokachidake (10 km, 1110 m) and Furano-dake (7 km, 750 m). Incredible powder, massive open faces; it was an unforgettable experience. And to round off the day, the Fukiage Onsen (thermal bath), a great, well-known Japanese tradition that we quickly became fans of!
Day 8: Departure from Furano to our next destination: Lake Tōya. Exploration on foot of the resort and Hirafu Niseko village.
Day 9: Ski touring day at Shiribetsu-dake (11 km, 1000 m). This volcano is a prized backcountry destination because we can ride down different faces, depending on the snow conditions (get there early!). The views from another volcano, Mount Yōtei, are also impressive. We finished the day at the Makkari Onsen, which we visited every day from then on!
Day 10: Skiing at Kiroro, a real favourite of the trip for its fantastic off-piste terrain. There’s also plenty of ski touring to be done if you want to spend a lot of time in Kiroro.
Day 11: Skiing at Niseko, an incredible experience despite the tourist crowds. This is THE mountain that receives the most snow, with an average of 13 m per season. For off-piste enthusiasts, go for the famous Gate 3 to the summit (allow 30 minutes for bootpacking after the last chairlift). What we didn’t like: With the mountain’s development, prices have soared and we’ve lost the typical Japanese charm around the mountain. It’s very touristy. We would have liked to have spent more time there, but the top of the mountain and access to the bowls are only open for a day, and Niseko becomes very quickly tracked out.
Days 12-13: Skiing at Rusutsu. Protected from the winds, this village is an excellent Plan B when the wind picks up in Niseko. It’s very easy to navigate off-piste, unlike the other mountains where we constantly had to stop and check our position on FATMAP. A must: Mount Isola!
Day 14: Return to Montreal.
Price Breakdown
So how much would a ski trip like this one cost? We got away with spending about $4,500 each. Here’s a quick price breakdown, per person.
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Plane ticket for Tokyo $1,300
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Plane ticket for Hokkaido (+2 suitcases) $190
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Tokyo accommodations (2 nights) $170
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Furano accommodations (3 nights) $230
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Niseko accommodations (7 nights) $500
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Tokyo transportation $50
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Car rental (10 days) $285
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Gas & tolls $150
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Food & restaurants $500
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Ski tickets (5 days) $450
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Ski touring guides in Furano (2 days) $170
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Ski touring guides in Niseko (1 day) $210
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Onsen (7 days) $70
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SIM card $40
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International Driver’s Permit $30
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Various expenses $100
To keep in mind for this trip
- To really enjoy Japan’s powder, you need to go off-piste. In fact, every resort has accessible off-piste zones that lead back to the lifts—no need for skins.
- Walk around between Furano and Niseko to enjoy a variety of experiences. In the Niseko area, opt for accommodation at Lake Toya—much cheaper!
- Plan on at least eight days of skiing to get the most out of it.
- Book a tour guide to help you enjoy the best powder, away from the crowds.
- We booked at the end of November for our trip in January, and even then it was almost too late. Book early, but it’s also worth noting that you can take advantage of excellent sales during the Black Friday period (we saved $800).
- In addition to avalanches, rivers and streams that don’t freeze pose a real threat to skiers. Take extra care in gullies and creek crossings.
- Make sure you’re fully equipped to protect yourself in the event of an avalanche.
Ski Touring Essentials
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